Let’s be honest here: We all have made a meal out of leftovers. Turkey sandwiches and soup the day after Thanksgiving, a salad from last night’s roast chicken, or chilaquiles from stale tortillas are just a few examples of how people can repurpose foods that others might have thrown out. In fact, cultures around the world have avoided waste this way for generations. For instance, Italians and their frugal philosophy of cucina povera elevated the reuse of leftovers into an art form.
Meaning “cuisine of the poor” or “peasant cooking”, cucina povera is now a term used to encompass traditional Italian dishes made from a handful of inexpensive ingredients — pasta, bread, polenta, rice, beans and pulses — enhanced with fresh vegetables and herbs. Some recipes might include meat in the form of offal or preserved items like ham and salted fish, in very small amounts.
These dishes have persisted in Italian kitchens for centuries. Thanks to the thousands of immigrants that came to the Americas, we can enjoy these humble yet tasty recipes which have been passed down through generations. Here are a few of our favorites which we hope will become yours as well.
Pasta e fagioli
Pasta e fagioli is a simple but hearty soup made from pasta and protein-rich beans. It’s as filling and comforting as it is easy to make. That’s not to say there aren’t many different versions of pasta e fagioli, which vary by region, province, and even household.
Some variations are closer to a minestrone, with pasta mingling with beans and vegetables in a clear broth. Others, such as this classic pasta e fagioli recipe, are more like a thick stew, with aromatic herbs like rosemary and sage and enhanced with cubed pancetta. You may also come across versions that include tomatoes or tomato paste. The dish is very similar to another staple of cucina povera, ribollita.
Different versions aside, pasta e fagioli has two constants. The recipes always call for small pasta shapes, such as ditalini or small shells. The other constant are the beans, which must be thoroughly cooked to the desired creamy consistency. Canned beans may be used as a shortcut, but nothing beats using dried beans, cooked low and slow. Since cucina povera relies on leftovers and food that would otherwise be discarded, ham bones might be used to add flavor and richness to the broth, like Southern cooks do by adding ham hocks to soups and bean stews.
Panzanella
In the summer, when tomatoes are at their best, a panzanella salad is a great way to use them. Made from stale bread, fresh tomatoes, onion, olive oil, and vinegar, a Tuscan panzanella is straightforward and satisfying.
This dish has been made throughout Italy for centuries, with some theories suggesting that it was created as a way to moisten old bread and use up garden vegetables. Another explanation claims that sailors invented the dish while on fishing boats. According to that account, they relied on seawater to soften bread.
As is the case with other cucina povera recipes, there are many regional variations of panzanella that include extra ingredients such as basil, cucumber, cheeses, tuna, and eggs. To make the best panzanella, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, the bread you use matters; the ideal is a crusty loaf such as a ciabatta, baguette, or sourdough. You want to use the very best ripe tomatoes, as this will be the dominant flavor providing the juice that will add moisture to the bread, as in this heirloom tomato panzanella recipe. Use an excellent quality extra virgin olive oil, and if you want to impart extra flavor and textures, you can add olives, capers, crumbled feta or fresh mozzarella, or any other vegetables or herbs of your choice.
Risi e bisi
Italians love their rice, as is evident in myriad recipes from across The Boot. While dishes such as risotto are most often associated with the north, in the south and Sicily, you might find recipes such as arancini, deliciously crispy fried balls of leftover rice. Rice is so beloved in the country that Italians have developed their own short-grain, starchy varieties such as carnaroli and arborio which are essential to a proper risotto. The same style of rice is also necessary to prepare its close cousin, risi e bisi. However, purists will insist on making risi e bisi with Vialone Nano rice. That variety creates a creamier texture thanks to its absorptive quality and greater starchiness.
Risi e bisi, literally meaning “rice and peas,” is typically prepared in the spring, when fresh green peas are in season and are readily available in home gardens and markets. Today, however, people can use frozen peas and make this dish year-round. After these two core ingredients, a good dose of Parmesan and a rich flavorful stock are key. Traditionally, chicken stock is preferred but risi e bisi can easily be made vegetarian using vegetable or mushroom stock or broth. And if not making a vegetarian version, tiny cubes of pancetta or Prosciutto are usually added as well, but can be omitted if desired. Finish it up with freshly ground black pepper and chopped Italian parsley for a classic Venetian supper.
Pasta puttanesca
Although the lore and name of this savory dish suggests an association with Neapolitan ladies of the night, historians of Italian foodways disagree on the origins of pasta puttanesca. Jeremy Parzen, an expert on all things Italian, writes in his blog Do Bianchi that this popular preparation likely comes from the region around the isle of Ischia and the Amalfitan coast. Tomatoes, capers, olives, anchovies, and garlic are widely used in recipes in that area. Parzen argues that “the qualifier alla puttanesca refers to the fact that it is not a rich dish” but instead contains a pasta sauce made from “humble” foodstuffs. Regardless of the origin or the name, pasta alla puttanesca is a wonderfully savory recipe that comes together quickly using just a handful of pantry ingredients.
For those of us who love anchovies, the recipe can be made richer by doubling down on the amount of anchovies. However, those who dislike the controversial ingredient can still achieve a seaside flavor by adding shrimp to the recipe — although technically, this will leave it out of the cucina povera realm. It is possible to just leave them out to create a vegetarian version, but you will be missing out on the brilliant umami punch that anchovies bring to this simple preparation.
Pappa al pomodoro
Another Tuscan recipe featuring tomatoes and old bread, pappa al pomodoro is an excellent example of the cucina povera. A quick dish with lots of flavor, it’s similar to acquacotta (a Tuscan soup whose name means “cooked water”). Pappa al pomodoro is great as a filling lunch either served hot for a comforting meal or chilled for a refreshing, summery starter.
This is one of those recipes that require quality over quantity. Be sure to use the best ingredients possible, including extra virgin olive oil and fresh garlic and basil. Tinned tomatoes are perfectly fine, especially if you can source Italian San Marzanos. For the bread, use any crusty white loaf such as baguette, ciabatta, or any Italian-style bread. However, it’s best to avoid sourdough as the flavor will be too strong and not in tune with the traditional recipe.
If you don’t have old bread, you can use fresh crusty bread if you toast it first to achieve the right texture. Serve pappa al pomodoro topped with torn basil leaves, a good grind of black pepper, and shaved Parmesan. You can make the soup vegan by omitting the cheese and substituting the chicken stock with vegetable broth.
