In the United States, the standard arrangement for dining establishments involves tables of various sizes accompanied by comfortable chairs. This reduces the number of people who can fit in a restaurant, but in America, dining has always been about comfort. But in 2017, a Japanese steakhouse chain tried to bring a popular Japanese concept — standup dining — to New York City. Unfortunately, it wasn’t successful, but it’s a common way of eating in Japan.
Ikinari Steak first launched in Tokyo back in 2013, where it quickly became a popular chain. The standing concept, coupled with affordable, high-quality grilled steaks that were cut to order, was interesting to people — and by the time the restaurant opened its first United States location in New York City, there were already more than 130 operating in Japan. By 2019, that number had risen to 400 Japan locations. However, the restaurant’s ownership eventually realized they scaled up “too fast” for the American market, resulting in an unsuccessful launch.
Ikinari Steak ultimately closed all of its US locations
The stand-up dining restaurants offered one of the best cuts of steak for grilling — the ribeye — for under $20, which was a far cry from what most people would expect to pay in New York City. Other steak options like sirloin and filet were also in the $20 range, with various sides like rice and salad available for an extra charge. The steak cuts that didn’t break the bank drew in some customers, but not enough. Inside the East Village restaurant, customers would stand around large tables and enjoy their food while mingling — a casual dining setting serving elevated cuisine. Still, the concept of quick-service steak was too new in the U.S., and it’s what Ikinari Steak attributed to its own downfall.
“In the US, consumers eat steak at a fancy steakhouse for a special occasion, or cook at home,” Hideki Kawano, then-president of Kuni’s Corporation, the U.S. subsidiary of Ikinari Steak’s parent company Pepper Food Service, told Forbes in 2019. “We realized that Ikinari Steak’s casual quick service concept would take a long time to be accepted in this country. We expanded our operation too fast.”
Ikinari Steak announced in 2019 that nine of its 11 U.S. locations, all of which were in New York City, would close. In 2020, due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Ikinari Steak closed all remaining locations temporarily, but it later shifted to a permanent closure.
