There is a lot to keep in mind when steak is on the menu, from choosing the right cut for your budget to making sure you don’t cook it straight from the fridge. But once it’s done and you pull it from a hot skillet, what’s left in the pan should not go to waste. Those are the pan drippings, and you can turn them into a delicious wine sauce. However, according to three-time James Beard nominee chef Nick Steen of Walkers Grill in Billings, Montana, there’s one key thing to remember: “Whenever you pick a wine to cook with, remember the quality is going to translate to what you taste.”
He continued, “I’m a firm believer that you shouldn’t cook with a wine you’re not willing to drink or willing to lose as well.” While he doesn’t use the most expensive bottle he has lying around, he also doesn’t “use extremely cheap wine,” and neither should you. The reason is simple: Super inexpensive wine has a tendency to taste, well … not great. And once all the alcohol is cooked off, what you’re left with is whatever flavors that cheap wine had to begin with — which can taint the taste of any sauce you make with it. If you’re on a budget, never fear: Boxed wine is actually a great, drinkable mid-priced option, and once opened, it lasts up to a month.
How to make the perfect wine sauce
Now that that’s settled and you won’t be using any bad-tasting discount wines for your pan sauce, chef Nick Steen has advice on choosing the right wine for the steak you’re cooking. “The biggest thing with picking the wine is the tannin structure. The more fat a steak has, [like a ribeye or New York strip], the more tannin you’ll want [so pick a] cabernet sauvignon, cab Franc, [or] merlot,” he advised. For leaner cuts like filet or sirloin, he recommends going “with something a bit lighter, but not so light it gets lost, [like a] malbec, sangiovese, [or a full-bodied] pinot noir.”
When it comes to actually making the pan sauce, pour out all but a fine sheen of the steak drippings. Steen suggests adding the wine to the pan and slowly reducing it “with garlic and aromatic herbs.” Rosemary works well, as do thyme and sage. If you have a shallot on hand, chop it up and toss it in too. Other add-ins that can make your wine sauce sing include Dijon mustard or even fresh heavy cream.
“When it gets to about [three-quarters] reduced,” Steen continued, “add cold butter a tablespoon at a time and whisk until it’s fully incorporated. Should be like velvet!”
