Folks from New England generally understand the nuances involving lobster rolls. It’s not just about cooking the lobster itself, but rather preparing the overall lobster roll sandwich. Most agree to steam the lobster and use long, fresh, split-top rolls. But when it comes to the sauce factor, things get territorial very quickly: Should you use melted butter, mayonnaise, or both? That’s right, using both can create the lobster roll of your dreams.
To gain some insight on the butter/mayo conundrum, we reached deep into New England lobster territory to find a well-known expert in all things seafood: Steve Kingston, owner of The Clam Shack and advisor to the Maine Lobster Marketing Collaborative. For more than 50 years, the Clam Shack and its adjoining market have been serving locally caught lobster in Kennebunk, Maine, from their perch along the Kennebunk River.
Though Kingston leans into mayonnaise as the traditional Maine lobster roll dressing, he explains that using both mayonnaise and melted butter on the same roll creates distinct flavor and textural appeal. “You absolutely can use both — and we actually offer that option at The Clam Shack,” says Kingston, noting that some folks swear by it. “The mayo gives you that creamy base, while the butter adds a warm, rich finish on top.” But there’s a caveat: Too much of either carries the risk of overpowering the lobster meat. As such, the key is balance. “A touch of each can elevate the roll, but too much can bury the flavor … Lobster should be the star, not the sauce,” he states.
Balance is everything in lobster roll sauce
It’s a well-known fact that core differences exist between Connecticut and Maine lobster rolls, but Kingston explains how each individual style traditionally embraces the sauce. “It’s one of the greatest culinary debates — Team Butter vs. Team Mayo,” he explains. “In Maine, mayo has long been the traditional choice. That’s what I grew up on and what we still recommend at The Clam Shack. A light smear of mayo lets the sweet, soft-shell lobster shine.” But butter isn’t wrong; it’s just different, Kingston says, noting that “it adds a rich, warm flavor that’s more common in Connecticut-style rolls.”
As for using both in the same lobster roll, Kingston reiterates that the lobster comes first. “When using high-quality lobster meat such as fresh-picked tail, claw, and knuckle, you don’t want to drown it,” he explains.
Balancing mayo and melted butter can be accomplished in various ways. Some people advocate mixing mayo into chilled lobster meat, then toasting or grilling the bun with butter. Others say the best way to go is to spread mayo on the bun and pour melted butter over the lobster. There are plenty of other approaches to the mayo/butter tango, so experiment to find a mix you love. It’s not full-on sacrilege to spice things up a bit; just mix things like hot sauce, Dijon mustard, or mustard powder directly into the mayonnaise, and drizzle it over the lobster meat. Check out more Tasting Table tips on how to assemble lobster rolls like a chef for maximum flavor.
