We may receive a commission on purchases made from links.
Down a narrow side street in NYC’s Chinatown, the door at 9 Doyers is almost conspicuously designed not to draw attention to itself. The only clue you’re in the right location is a small sign that says “Chemist.” Try to walk in and you’ll be stopped by a bouncer who seems annoyed you’ve found the place. Once you’re granted entry, you wouldn’t be crazy to think you’ve stumbled onto a pretty illicit location. And while Apotheke Mixology is housed in an old opium den, this bar’s retro pharmacy-inspired cocktails aspire to evoke something far more wholesome.
The history of opium dens in New York City is steeped in anti-immigrant panic that commingled legitimate fears of substance abuse with fictionalized racist stereotypes. Newspaper comics and staged photographs depicted opium dens as exotic dungeons where white women smoked until they fell asleep under the lurid gaze of cartoonishly evil Chinese proprietors. While the history of Apotheke’s address is undeniable, the business is wise to avoid its aesthetic, opting instead for a scene that feels more like an old-world Parisian absinthe house. The curtains are plush, the lights are warm, and the drinks are just what the doctor ordered.
Cocktails and cure-alls
Inside the lush, quiet lounge, mixologists dress to play the part of pharmacists, stirring up novel and original libations while wearing white lab coats. Bar patrons can order from a menu of “aphrodisiacs,” “euphorics,” and “health & beauty” drinks. A crumbling mural of the caduceus hangs over an intimate table for two, and the lamps are colorful beakers of mysterious infusions. To complete the theme, Apotheke’s alchemical wonders are made from organic, house-made ingredients, including herbs and botanicals grown on the speakeasy’s roof. It’s a modern-day take on the deep roots of cocktail ingredients, like bitters being used as medicinal remedies.
One of the most popular drinks on the menu is the Victoria Quay, an aphrodisiac made from cardamom and pineapple-infused vodka and a pineapple-cilantro shrub. Reviewers have said they have a tough time stopping at just one, but make sure you come with a fat wallet, because the drinks here all cost between $21 and $24. And no, the pharmacists behind the bar don’t take health insurance.
Since taking over the old opium den, Apotheke has expanded to new locations in NYC and LA, and even has a book on making medicinal cocktails at home: “Apotheke: Modern Medicinal Cocktails.” If you’re hooked on modern-day speakeasies after visiting Apotheke, here are thirteen more to make barhopping feel a little more scandalous. There’s even one hidden inside a hot dog joint.
