For those in the United States, the many different styles of pizza can be a hot topic of debate. One point of contention with regional pizzas is identifying which one is the most authentic representation of its region. Given the recent news of a Chicago native, Cardinal Robert Francis Prevost, being elected as Pope Leo XIV, there’s been much discussion about the new pontiff’s preferred foods from his hometown, specifically his favorite pizza place. While the term “Chicago pizza” is nearly synonymous with deep dish, Chicago natives will be the first to correct you on the differences between deep dish and tavern-style pizza, pointing out that the latter is the “one true” Chicago style of pizza.
How and why has deep dish pizza eclipsed tavern-style for so long? Deep dish originated in 1943 when Ike Sewell and Ric Riccardo opened Pizzeria Uno in Chicago, which, according to the Uno’s website, sold, “Pizza unlike any other. Fresh dough with a tall edge, topped with homemade sauce and more cheese than you could believe.” On the other hand, Vito & Nick’s Pizzeria opened in 1923 and Granato’s in 1924, both of which served a thin-crust pizza cut into small squares and served on a napkin to accompany a drink-in-hand. The popularity of pizza in Chicago saw an increase following the end of Prohibition around the 1940s, which was certainly opportune timing for Uno’s and its creative deep dish pie.
What is Chicago tavern-style pizza?
Because Prohibition made drinking a more clandestine affair at the time, tavern-style pizza was seen more as an accessory to a cold drink than a meal in itself like its voluptuous counterpart. It wasn’t until after the repeal of Prohibition that the tavern-style pizza gained slightly more prominence despite being outshined by a much more burdensome yet delicious pie. Between a tavern-style’s portable thin crust and a deep dish pizza that requires a fully sit-down experience, it’s obvious why the latter has always had more appeal to tourists who have the time to be leisurely with their meals. It simply isn’t practical for Chicagoans on-the-go.
It’s interesting to look at the way that history can affect the popularity and narrative around fan-favorite dishes from specific locations. This “no fuss, no muss” style of pizza is now presumed to be papally approved thanks to tavern-style pizza spot, Aurelio’s, sharing about the current pope’s previous visit to its Homewood restaurant to order a thin crust pepperoni pizza. Whereas some beloved foods have origin stories that are murky at best, these two pizza rivals prove that there’s a seat at the table for everyone to enjoy a piece, whether gently placed on a napkin or spiritedly dug into with a fork and knife.
