While Anthony Bourdain was frank about food practices and ceremonies he didn’t like, he was also clear in expressing appreciation for industry gems. One such establishment is Gray’s Papaya, one of Bourdain’s favorite New York City restaurants. “When I start missing New York, this is what I miss,” he famously said of the hot dog-focused establishment. In a third season episode of “No Reservations,” Bourdain describes the destination as the go-to for nourishment on the cheap. “This is where I drop by after a couple of drinks or a couple of rounds of ammo for a cost-efficient, nutritious snack,” he said, before recommending the papaya drink and hot dog duo.
Gray’s Papaya earned a reputation for reliable deliciousness and its trademark “Recession Specials” that once offered two hot dogs and a medium-sized drink for only $4.50. That price has gradually increased to $7.50 over the years and remains a customer favorite. “Accept no substitutes,” Bourdain instructs on “No Reservations,” before ordering two dogs with mustard, sauerkraut, and a papaya juice.
A shining light in the boondocks
Nicholas Gray, the founder of Gray’s Papaya, quit his job as a Wall Street stockbroker when he decided to open a franchised Papaya King. Two years later, in 1973, he launched Gray’s Papaya, where customers could purchase papaya juice and hot dogs at a cheaper price than the larger brand. While Gray’s Papaya once boasted several locations, only the initial flagship location on Manhattan’s Upper West Side remains. There, iconic New York hot dogs are still placed in white buns crowned with ketchup, mustard, sauerkraut, onions, and relish, and toppings of chili and cheese can be added for an extra 75 cents.
Additionally, breakfast specials like rolls with eggs, cheese, and meats; bagels slathered with butter or cream cheese; croissants, danishes, and donuts are also served. Juices include coconut, banana, piña colada, and, of course, papaya. For parties and hearty appetites, 12 hot dogs can be taken away for $30, or kits can be ordered online through Gold Belly, where packaged papaya drinks and hot dogs can be heated up and assembled at home, no taxi needed.