Certain drinks inspire a passionate particularity among their connoisseurs — especially martinis, with their long, proud history and loyal legion of purists. But drinks like the Vesper often puzzle martini lovers. The Vesper is something of a paradox, as it flies in the face of convention to the point that one could debate whether it is, in fact, a martini — but it is.
The first way a Vesper flaunts tradition is that a true martini contains either gin or vodka (but probably gin), while the Vesper proudly utilizes both. The second is that a Vesper calls for its ingredients to be shaken together, a requirement that is borderline sacrilegious in martini circles, as it dilutes the drink by melting the ice, while clouding what should be a crystal-clear cocktail. If this drink’s description is starting to jog your memory, yes, it’s James Bond’s go-to order.
In Ian Fleming’s 1953 book “Casino Royale,” where the Vesper was first introduced to the world, Bond orders, “Three measures of Gordon’s [gin], one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very well until it’s ice-cold, then add a large thin slice of lemon peel.” To this day, this is how the drink is made — in essence, that is. Kina Lillet is now a relic of the past, a bitter apéritif that cut through the Vesper’s booziness. Cocchi Americanois is a preferred substitute — like the Kina Lillet, it is flavored with quinine — though for a fun Peruvian twist, you can use Lillet Blanc, a sweeter version of the previous outdated spirit, and substitute vodka for pisco, a type of grape brandy.
Art often imitates life, but sometimes it precedes it
The relationship between film and food is a — forgive the pun — storied one. “The Big Lebowski” spawned a new generation of white Russian drinkers, and “Pulp Fiction” led to barbecue connoisseurs nationwide declaring, “That is a tasty burger” after taking a bite. Some relationships between these two pillars of culture are even more intertwined, though, with the movie not just popularizing but actually inventing new culinary phenomena. “Harry Potter” gave the world three-ingredient butterbeer, and Hong Kong’s sorrowful rice originates from the 1996 movie “The God of Cookery.” This is where the Vesper enters the conversation. Ian Fleming didn’t popularize the Vesper by including it in Casino Royale — he invented it, and in doing so, brought generations of debate to the world of martinis. These debates were rekindled following the 2006 film by the same name, which skyrocketed the drink back into the public lexicon.
The question of why Bond would choose to have his drink shaken has produced many different, interesting theories. Fleming’s recipe is basically a hack for receiving a double helping of alcohol, given the prescribed quantities of gin, vodka, and Lillet, and the coldness and dilution from the ice would make it go down smoother. Another theory relates to the author, who was also known for his prodigious drinking. Vodka is a cheaper spirit than gin, while also acting as a bit of a flavor dilutant to the gin, thereby making this a more economical and slightly less abrasive cocktail.
